21 December 2008

Yangon Yinyang Volume 1 Number 7

Yangon Yinyang Volume 1 Number 7

I’m half a day ahead of you so if it’s news to you, it is history to me.
Dateline: Nam Tit, Wa Special Region, Myanmar 13 December 2008

There are some things that happen to me here that I shouldn’t write about. Not because they are bad or sensitive but because they will spoil your mental image of me sacrificing and suffering. I’m in north eastern Myanmar visiting ADRA projects and having a fascinating time. On your map Shan State borders China, Laos, and Thailand. I’m on the China border. It is approximately 230 28' North and 980 52' East. If you map shows Laukai (or some similar spelling, that is close).
There are two Special Regions. Region 1 is Kokant (Kokang) and I have been there also on this trip. Special Region 2 is Wa. These areas have a long history of isolation and armed struggle against all outsiders. Both have signed peace agreements with the government but both have some autonomy so they are designated Special Regions. Culturally they are distinct from the Bamar that dominate lower Myanmar. They are something like the Indian Reservations in America in their semi-autonomy.
Kokant is the most northeastern of Shan State and Wa is south of Kokant. Both are mountainous regions and poor. The proximity to the Chinese border is significant here. We changed our Kyat to Chinese Yuan which is the local currency. All signs are in Chinese and some also are in Myanmar. The major language in Kokant is Chinese. Wa also has the Chinese influence but the language is Wa. There are isolated ethnic groups with their own languages. My discussions go through two translators each way. English to Myanmar to Chinese or Wa and then back to English. In Lahu villages there is an additional translator from Wa to Lahu.





A few years ago the local Kokant and Wa authorities banned the growing of Opium poppies. This has dramatically reduced the economic opportunities for the people. That’s a major factor for ADRA’s involvement here. It is ironic that in the US’s war on drugs, we are giving large amounts of money to some countries to reduce production and here, where they did it on their own, we don’t have any interest. It’s true that opium is produced elsewhere but here is it gone. We give billions to Colombia and Afghanistan. They pretend to reduce production of Opium and Cocaine and we pretend to see progress. Here they have chosen to stop it and we ignore them.





ADRA projects here are typical for areas of extreme poverty. No crop can be grown that is as lucrative as poppy but we are working with villagers to improve what they can grow. We are using Food For Work to pay labor to terrace land since it is mostly hilly ( and chilly). We are providing material to build simple greenhouses so they can start seedlings and transplant during the rainy season and thus gain time on the growth cycle. We are also using Food For Work to support construction of a road that will reduce the time to get to the nearest town from a maximum of 12 hours walking to a maximum of 2. It will also allow the trucks that transport goods, people, and animals to reach the isolated villages. This is important to improve their markets. The food is provided by the World Food Programme (WFP). A water buffalo bank provides work animals.
We also distribute food to families with school age children. A child of 7 can work in the field or around the house and contribute to the family. I’ll bet that sounds strange to most of you. If they attend school, the family loses that labor and that can be crucial. We give a ration of rice and oil that is calculated to more than compensate for the loss to the family. This is called Food For Education. ADRA has projects like this around the country and in many other countries. WFP is providing food for programs like this around the world. About 10,000 children in Kokant and Wa are getting Food for Education from ADRA and other development agencies have similar programs in other parts of these two special regions. There aren’t many schools in this region because the children have traditionally worked instead of going to class. ADRA has built one school and I hope to get support from private donors to build more schools. The school is a simple building with tables and benches but it can make a difference in the future of the children and the community.










Water is another important factor here. There is adequate water from streams but it isn’t convenient to the villages and isn’t safe to drink. ADRA provides the material such as cement, plastic pipe, etc. and the villagers provide the labor. We build a simple filtration system at a spring source above a village and lay the pipe to a 5,000 gallon storage tank we build in a central spot in the village. In one village, the water source is 2.8 km (1.5 miles) from the village. There are generally streams closer than that but they are badly contaminated. In the first village I asked the people how much time they saved because they didn’t have to walk to the spring. I immediately realized that was a foolish question because they don’t wear watches or live by the clock. They told me they now have more time to do other things because the water was convenient. Carrying water is hard work and usually done by women and children. They also report reduced incidences of diarrhea. Diarrhea is a major contributor to malnutrition and infant death so the clean water has another benefit.




The number of unique ethnic groups here is interesting. Some maintain their culture in dress, house construction, language, etc. Everyone I meet is friendly. Even when they have to step off the narrow roads when we drive by, they will smile and nod. The Maung Zi whose women wear a distinctive black cloth hat wound similar to a turban that extends several inches to the front and the Lahu are the most numerous and distinct but there are several others.
The roads are dirt, and steep so travel is slow. At least we aren’t walking or riding a water buffalo. It isn’t practical to drive back to town each night so we have stayed in some pretty shabby guest houses. Luckily it is cold enough and the beds are short enough that I don’t have enough nerve sensation to notice if there are bed bugs bitting me. Or maybe the cockroaches ate the bed bugs.
Food has been an adventure here. I haven’t seen McDonalds or Dennys for months. Restaurants in these remote areas are a room in somebody’s house with a table or two and some stools. There is no menu, you eat what the cook serves. If you want chicken, you have to wait while the cook kills, cleans, and cooks it. Usually in the same room. Fast Food isn’t a meaningful concept here. I often eat without knowing what I’m eating. Even the vegetables look and taste strange. I remember my mother’s response when we were visiting and were served some strange food. We would say "what is this?" and she would say "it’s called eat it and be quiet". I have enough nutrition and public health training to know the risks of eating in places like this. I used to wonder why I am not sick. Now I wonder why I’m not dead. I’m fortunate, I haven’t been sick. It supports my theory that if I eat and drink everything, I get so many bugs in my system they spend their time fighting each other and don’t bother me. Thanks for the popcorn, cheerios, and grapenuts.

Except in tourist areas in Myanmar, toilets are squat. My old knees aren’t happy squatting. I still carry my toilet paper because I haven’t adjusted to the local way. ADRA has constructed thousand of outhouses in Myanmar. Generally we supply the bottom pan and pipe, the people collect the wood or bamboo for the frame and weave the palm fronds to make walls and roof. They provide the labor.






The first stop on all my project visits is a meeting with the local authorities. Generally this includes military and civilian authorities. They are universally appreciative of the work ADRA is doing. Most can describe in some detail what we are doing. A general on this trip said I was the first American he ever met but he felt he knew me. We may have been friends or relatives in a previous life. Makes sense to me. These are restricted areas and travel is only by permission from central and local authorities. In addition to the protocol meetings, we present our papers to various checkpoints. ADRA is known and respected so the name on the vehicle, the name on the travel permit, and the name on my ADRA vest mean we move easily. I don’t think there is any risk except from the food and the mountainous roads.




As always, I am proud to be part of ADRA Myanmar and ADRA world-wide. We are making a difference and the people recognize and appreciate it. The project workers face difficult conditions yet accomplish great things. I feel bad when I am thanked for what ADRA does because I know they have done the work and I get the glory. The projects in these two regions are funded by the WFP, ADRA Swiss, The Swiss Development Corporation, ADRA Australia, the Australian Aid Agency, ADRA New Zealand, The New Zealand Aid Agency, and ECHO which is the European Commission’s emergency assistance arm. ADRA has a lot of partners that make our work possible. We start with donations from church members and others and leverage that with the large donors and suddenly we are Changing the world, One life at a time.
Stop by if you are in the neighborhood. It happens. A couple of weeks ago I was talking with the people at the table next to me at breakfast. During about 10 minutes of random sharing, I said I used to teach at Loma Linda University. The man said do you know a professor Havens? I said I was Doug Havens. He said do you know Gayle Fitchett? I denied knowing her but I was busted. At that point I realized it was Paul and Carol Kelly, good friends of Gayle, who I haven’t seen in 30 years. They come to Myanmar to support some students and church groups here.

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